Heading to Northland

Our next task was to get from Rotorua up to the Bay of Islands in Northland some 460 km (~280 miles). The charts told us it would require about 7 hours to drive which comes out to an average of 40 mph. A third of that distance is on really great road where you can mostly go from 50 to 60 mph. The rest of the way was typical of NZ--lots of curves, lots of road work, lots of small towns, and very few passing lanes.

On Monday, we drove through Auckland and beyond entering the area known as Northland. Our first stop was in Warkworth in order to go to SheepWorld. The description had been good but the real thing was a little shabby. We did, however, get to see a working sheepdog demonstration, and Mark even got to help shear a sheep. Of course, it ended with bottle feeding the lambs!

We spent the night in Whangarei. Tuesday morning we explored a little in town. First was a kauri forest canopy walk and hike to a waterfall. The kauri tree is another of NZ’s grand indigenous coniferous trees. The short canopy walk was beautiful and the hike to the waterfall was quite varied and pleasant. Next we visited a quarry garden with Butchart Gardens on our minds. Suffice it to say, the gardens have a good start but have a LONG way to go. We loaded up on groceries, ate a picnic lunch, and headed out for The Bay of Islands.

Along the way, we stopped briefly in Kawakawa to view the famous (or should I say infamous) city toilets. They were designed by Friedensreich Hundertwasser and were gifted to the city. Hundertwasser was a painter and architect who by the end of the 20th century was one of the best-known, although controversial, Austrian artists. Having moved to the Kawakawa area in 1975, Hundertwasser considered New Zealand his official home until his death. Anyway, the toilets are a hoot and awash with tourists!  We were relieved (pun intended) to pull into our hotel in Whaitangi--ahh, three nights in one place!!

Te Urewera Forest

During this time of vacation, Mark was eager to do some kind of guided tramp. I always enjoy a good hike but have never been much interested in backpacking so I tried hard to be (cautiously) encouraging of the idea. I was worried that I could get very wet and very cold and might not be “up” to the more strenuous hiking. We decided that a one nighter would be a good compromise.

We investigated several companies and finally decided on Te Urewera Treks. They offered 1, 2, or 3 day guided treks into the Te Urewera Rainforest. The descriptions meshed with what we were hoping for--eco-cultural wilderness treks, special guided walking experience, knowledgeable Maori guides. Day one of the 2 day trek promised a “wilderness trek over rugged terrain…of moderate difficulty… about 6-7 hours at a leisurely pace with frequent rests.” (Moderate is good….leisurely is good….) Day two promised a hike through the “Whirinaki Forest Park…following a loop trail through enormous podocarp trees…abundance of native birdlife…about 4-5 hours including breaks.” In emailing with Jo from Te Urewera Treks, we discovered that we would only be required to carry our own day backpacks--a relief since we don’t have big packs with us. All this sounded good but the clincher for us was the promise of overnighting in a “comfortable private bush camp, with hot showers, a BBQ dinner and good New Zealand wine.” Sounded too good to be true!

We pulled into Joe and Jo Doherty’s house south of Rotorua about 9 AM on Saturday morning. They welcomed us into their home and served up cookies and hot drinks while they finished up all the last minute details of our trek plus the tree planting/hike of a couple from The Netherlands. We all piled into a van and set out. The Dutch couple would be guided by Jacob and John. Joe would be our guide.

Having grown up in the exact area we were to hike, Joe was a fount of information. He was both knowledgeable and very well spoken. It was interesting to learn that he had worked in Wellington for some 20 years and that both he and his wife Jo were actively involved in the beginnings and opening of the wonderful Te Papa museum we visited there. Our hike started with a Maori incantation as we strangers entered their lands and the protection of their gods. Coming from Joe it was sincere and real, not hokey or put on.

We hiked up and down valleys and along ridge tops with views in both directions. Joe told us historical stories, talked about cultural issues, pointed out wildlife, and instructed us in trees and other vegetation. It was a long hike but the pace was doable and the breaks were frequent enough. Nonetheless, we were pleased when we scrambled down the last steep hillside and walked into the bush camp. Jacob and John and two new Dutch ladies were already sitting around the table having a glass of wine. Soon we were, too. After a few nibblies and while dinner was being prepared, we tried out the showers. Indeed, plenty of gas fired hot water. What a treat after a long day‘s hike!

Dinner included steaks grilled to our specifications and a yummy homemade tart made by Jo. We lingered around the fire and then retreated to our roomy tent and beds--substantial air mattresses on cots and two sleeping bags each. I snuggled into bed with my hot water bottle (which it turns out they have available, too) and was toasty all night.

Breakfast in the morning was a feast--eggs, bread toasted on a rack by the fire, grilled tomatoes, mushrooms and ham, cereal, muesli, yogurt, fruit, juice, hot coffee. Well fortified, we loaded into the van and motored over to Whirinaki Forest. The promised 4-5 hour hike was through this podocarp forest. Indigenous to NZ, the five podocarp trees (coniferous) we encountered were like nothing we have ever seen. We hiked along the Whirinaki River up to a waterfall for lunch, observing the podocarps, tree ferns, ferns, mosses, and fungi along the way. Such lush forest!

Completing our hike, we piled back into the van for the trip back to Doherty’s house where we once again sat around the table and had hot drinks and cookies. The Dutch ladies went on their way but Joe escorted us to a nearby hot river for a soak. It was amazing. We and a few other folks sat in 104 degree flowing water below a small waterfall surrounded by trees and shrubs. It was almost too hot for Mark! A remarkable end to a remarkable two days.

Whanarua Bay

Expectations are always interesting. Mark and I have often been surprised when the expectations of one are completely different than those of the other. Also, one of us is a glass-half-empty kind of person and the other is a glass-half-full kind of person. I’m assuming that if you know us well, you know who is which………

Eastland is a remote kind of place and tourist offerings are few and far between. We knew we wanted to crash somewhere along the route so had started looking online. The ad said,” Whanarua Bay Cottages are located on the Eastern Bay of Plenty….lovely cottages….in beautiful and secluded bay….two bedrooms….fully self-contained…. have kitchen and laundry facilities, heating, outdoor furniture and BBQ…paddle out and explore the bay in one of our kayaks.” We booked for two nights.  My expectations were primed.

We arrived about 6 PM after our long, wet day of driving around the coast of Eastland. The supposedly idyllic cottage was just off the highway, had no water view, was cold, a little shabby, and did not have an oven (one of our planned dinners was to roast some lamb). We had already paid for two nights and were too tired to push on anyway. Mark tried to light the one source of heat, a propane free-standing heater, only to discover it was out of gas. Thankfully, he was able to swap the tank with one outside on the BBQ and got the heater working. We huddled under a blanket and watched a little TV. Perhaps enticed by the heat, a large cockroach appeared on the wall. Once again, Mark to the rescue. All told, it was a tough end to the day…..though we discovered when we climbed into bed and turned out the light that the main bedroom had a glowing moon and stars on the ceiling.

Thursday, March 18, Mark’s birthday, dawned sunny and clear. The cottage was less depressing in the morning light. We had a hearty hot breakfast and walked down the highway to the steep, single lane access road down to the beach. The beach was tranquil, beautiful, rocky, secluded, sparkling in the morning sunlight. Ahhh…..We hiked back up and visited the macadamia nut farm located just down from our cottage and then went back to the cottage for lunch and to hang laundry out in the sunshine.

Encouraged by the warmth and sunshine, we asked the landlady if we might use a kayak. She had a two-man, hollow-hulled, hard plastic kayak on a small 2-wheeled trailer complete with life jackets. We hauled it down the steep drive to the bay. Hmmm…we had forgotten that the surf and wind tend to increase as the day progresses. Regardless, we managed to launch through some good sized waves and paddle the small bay with no mishaps. At one point we paddled hard out of a rocky inlet where the currents got dicey. Mark, who is not a confident swimmer, was relieved. Looking back where we had launched, big waves were intermittently crashing on the rocks and beach. Fortunately, we located a different place to come in for landing and managed to haul the beast back up the beach and the steep drive. We had just enough time to get to the macadamia nut farm before it closed in order to reward ourselves with chocolate macadamia nut ice cream .

We came home and sat on our deck in the sun and shade, read, did a little computer typing (no internet or cell phone coverage here), and relaxed. Later, we fixed a gourmet birthday dinner using scallions and parsley fresh from the garden behind the cottage.  The house was still warm from the sunfilled day and, choosing from a motley assortment of tapes, we kicked back and watched “Back to the Future” on VHS cassette. The day was good. Fulfillment of my expectations was close enough.

Eastland

Wednesday, the 17th, we drove north out of Gisborne. The drive around the coast winds back and forth from coastline to farther inland and takes you from the east coast South Pacific Ocean over to the west coast Bay of Plenty. This area is sparsely populated and has a high percentage of Maori. Tourists are advised to buy groceries and gas in Gisborne since provisions along the route can be pricey or even scarce.

Our first stop was just outside of Gisborne at a long surfing beach. The waves were crashing and the water was filled with dozens of wetsuit clad surfers. We lingered to watch. Driving on we encountered a vast hillside of sheep with dogs that had just crossed the road as well as sun reflected swirling yellow leaves caught in the gusting winds.

The next stop was Tologa Bay which is known for NZ’s longest wharf (2100 ft.) and some awesome cliffs. We pulled into the parking lot for the hike up the Tatarahake Cliffs (20 minutes) and the Cooks Cove Walkway (2.5 hours). I briefly commented to Mark about the clouds blowing over us, but we figured we would climb to the lookout and see how we felt. After climbing most of the way up the grassy back side of the cliff, we noticed a man and a woman running down the hill towards us. We glanced behind us and saw heavy dark clouds blurred with rain descending on us. The running couple passed us at a brisk clip and we turned and followed them. So much for the lookout! Minutes later we were caught in pelting rain and strong winds. We arrived back at our car pretty well soaked. Driving around the end of the cliffs, we saw the wharf. It looked like a mirage or phantom in the blowing rain. Awesome!

In town we found a small café for a warm up of coffee and hot chocolate and then kept driving. Our plan had been to picnic along the ocean. Instead, in Tokomaru Bay we found a restaurant overlooking the surf and had a HOT lunch!!



Pushing on to Tikitiki we found the beautiful St. Mary’s church which was built in 1924 with the intent to honor the fallen soldiers of WWI and display fine Maori craftsmanship. The wood carvings and flax weavings were beautifully intricate. Happily, visitors are welcome to explore and take pictures.

More driving brought us up near the tip of Eastland to the hamlet of Te Araroa and the world’s oldest pohutukawa tree--estimated to be 600 years old. It was largely unmarked from the road but following our guidebook, we found it. By this time, it was late afternoon. Whanarua Bay, the location of our lodging for the next two nights, was about 2 hours away. But more about that in the next blog………

Gisborne

The drive to Gisborne was up and over and back and forth through a long river gorge. We encountered a new silver bark and leaf tree which vibrated in the increasing wind--maybe a silver maple of some sort? It looked like a ghost tree among the other trees. We loved the forests: evergreen trees, fern trees, various deciduous trees, cabbage trees (which look like anemic palms trees but are unrelated), scrubby manuka bushes. An agreeable variety of greens and textures.

Gisborne is the other gateway city to Eastland and is situated on the beautiful Poverty Bay so named by Captain Cook because when he landed there in 1769 “it afforded us no one thing we wanted.” However, these days, Gisborne is considered Chardonnay grape country so we knew what we wanted! We were eager to stop at a winery or two to sample and buy. Our first stop was the Millton Winery highly recommended by our Fodor’s guidebook. We encountered an unhelpful, bored server and no Chardonnays even open for tasting. The second winery was closed for tasting.

A little frustrated, we drove into Gisborne and found our hotel and the ever helpful iSite. We were directed to a restaurant that does a wine and cheese tasting which we enjoyed! After that, we did a park walk, grocery shopped, and had a light dinner at a waterfront restaurant before heading back to the hotel room for--FREE INTERNET!

Wairata Forest Farm

Sunday morning we drove further down the coast to Opotiki, the northern gateway to the large eastward jutting landmass known as Eastland. However, we turned south.  We had contacted friends of friends about staying a couple of nights on their large homestead, Wairata Forest Farm. Twenty some years ago, Murray and Anne Redpath ran a large sheep station. Now they keep only about 80 sheep and 20 head of cattle and concentrate on growing hazel trees. (They say hazel trees instead of hazelnut trees.) The property has been in the Redpath family for over a hundred years and encompasses some five thousand acres which Murray now shares with his brother Bob.

Murray and Anne were easy gracious hosts and delightful people. In the short span of two days we joined in on a family birthday party for Murray’s 83 year old mom; went on a long tramp along the river and up a bluff; enjoyed endless meals (morning tea is a great addition to the day--we felt a little like hobbits, elevensies anyone?) with lots of home grown produce and, of course, hazels and yummy hazelbutter; helped (?) in rounding up and herding some 12 head of cattle down the road and over the bridge to a holding pen for later pickup; rode up the hillside with Murray in his ute (4-wheel drive utility vehicle) to look for The Bull (we didn’t find him but got to walk back down the hill enjoying the views); took another long tramp up a pristine creek valley with a continually growing number of sheep leading the way before us; and, of course, toured the hazel groves.

Mark also managed to replace some aging springs in both the dishwasher and oven while I caught up on emails. Although I had worried about our intruding on them, the time was relaxing and most interesting. We had wide ranging conversations about many topics including children, politics, farm policies, hazels, medicine, their visit to the west coast of the States, sheep tales, etc. Late Tuesday morning, after sharing one more hearty tea with them, we bid the Redpaths goodbye and drove southeast towards Gisborne.

Whakatane

Saturday, March 13, we left Putaruru and drove north and a little east towards the coastal city of Tauranga. It is an industrial port but also caters to vacationers in a concentrated area of beaches and resorts near the landmark Mt. Maunagunui, a cone shaped mountain, which rises abruptly out of the water on its own little peninsula. We ate our typical picnic lunch on a gorgeous, long, white sand tourist beach and then set off to walk around the base of Mt. Maunganui. It was an easy beautiful breezy walk with views to the harbor and then rocky beaches overhung by large pohutukawa trees (no longer in bright red bloom as they had been in Auckland when we first arrived in NZ).

We drove further down the coast to Whakatane where we found and checked in to our hotel. In perusing our little free guides we discovered that the NZCD Surf and Life Saving Championships for 2010 were taking place just a few minutes drive east at Ohope Beach. We scurried over and found various races in progress. We joined the milling crowds cheering on their favorite 6-person teams of men or women who were paddling double hulled canoes out through the surf, around a buoy, and back to shore where one person jumped into the water and sprinted for a flag gate.

 

After watching several exciting races, we walked the beach for a stretch enjoying the all the flocks of seabirds but especially the black oyster catchers with their long orange beaks. Before returning to town and a quiet dinner in our kitchenette room, we drove out the beach spit with views to the Bay of Plenty on one side and the sheltered Ohiwi Harbour on the other. Sadly, the house next door to our little hotel was filled with partiers who whooped it up all night long. Let’s hear it for earplugs!!

Whimsical Corrugated Creations

Tirau is a little town about five miles down the road from Putaruru. When we drove through we were enchanted by dozens of clever corrugated metal business signs and even two buildings. When we mentioned this to our landlady, she said, “Oh, yes, those are done by our friend Jim--he did our mailbox, too.” He has turned Tirau into the "Corrugated Iron Capital of New Zealand" but also supplies customers throughout New Zealand and overseas. Just thought I would share a few. 

On April 6, Mark will start work again in Wairoa, a town on the northern end of Hawke Bay on the east coast of the North Island. We will be there for a month. For the next three weeks, we will be traveling to different areas of the North Island--east, north, and central, we hope.

The Good Shepherd is in front of the Good Shepherd Church--TheDog is the Tirau iSite

Our mailbox--appropriate for folks emigrated from Zimbabwe, don't you think?

Sunday in Rotorua

Early on Sunday morning we went looking along the shores of Lake Rotorua for a 9 AM service at St. Faith’s Anglican church in the Ohinemutu neighborhood. Our guidebook had indicated that this was the region’s first Maori settlement--both pa (fortress) and marae (meeting house). The original church was built here in 1835 but was destroyed in inter-tribal warfare. Today’s church has an interesting Tudor architectural exterior which was popular when it was built in 1910. It is the inside, though, that is the treasure. The benches, pillars, and pulpits are beautifully carved wood and the walls are covered in woven flax panels of various designs. The front communion table had Tapu, Tapu, Tapu (Holy, Holy, Holy) carved across the front. A side chapel added in 1967 is intricately carved and ornately decorated like a chief’s house. At the front of the chapel is a large clear glass window that looks out to the lake and on which a figure of Christ wearing a Maori chief’s cloak has been sandblasted. Christ appears to be walking on Lake Rotorua. Sadly no pictures are allowed.

The service itself was interesting as well. We had trouble finding parking and the church was full. The congregation was probably half white, half Maori. All the songs were sung in Maori while the liturgy alternated between Maori and English. Even though the words were not familiar, the hymn tunes mainly were. Most were well sung with simple guitar accompaniment although the wonderful Lenten hymn “Alas, And Did My Savior Bleed” was sung with organ and ended acapella. The priest was a definite character and there was much laughter throughout the service. A little Maori girl was baptized during the service also. At the end of the service, I noticed congregation members greeting each other with hugs and kisses as well as hongi (pressing together of noses).

After church we went back into the center of town to stroll through Kuirau Park, a typical large city park with playing fields, a few gardens, ponds, playgrounds. The most interesting feature is that there are fenced off steaming spots throughout the park--sort of like ho, hum, here’s another one. We also saw a couple of small shallow warm pools for soaking one’s feet--which were being used.

 For lunch, we went to Burger King! Sad to say, it was quick, easy and cheap. We headed back to Putaruru going the long way around Lake Rotorua. Along the way, we stopped at Hamurana Springs for a short loop walk. What a pleasant surprise! It is another spring fed river that flows into Lake Rotorua. Before arriving at the actual spring source, however, you walk through a large stand of redwood trees (we haven‘t been able to discover when or why they were planted). Cool, quiet, and nearly deserted. Standing above the deep blue spring source was remarkable also. The perfect Sunday afternoon walk.

spring source

Our countryside drive back to Putaruru was short and easy. I noticed that every few miles was a sign for another marae. Many more Maori live in this area than did in the South Island.

Rotorua's Thermal Country

Saturday morning, we headed out early for the iSite in Rotorua. It is a big tourist town and there are a mind numbing number of activities to choose from. We had decided that we were mostly interested in seeing the thermal areas. Found a good deal on seeing two of the most popular attractions--Waiotapu (Sacred Water) Thermal Wonderland and Waimangu volcanic valley Scenic Reserve.

An aside here: we are overwhelmed with the Maori names in New Zealand. Inevitably it seems we mispronounce them. Interesting, though, to have the very British sounding place names as well. Of course, personally now we have been to Waiotapu, Waimangu, Te Waihou, Waipara, Waimate, Wanaka, and will be headed to Wairoa. Add to that Te Anua, Oamaru, Kakanui, Hokitika, Opotiki, and lots of other names too numerous to list! There is one nearby thermal area called Whakarewarewa (“wh” is pronounced like our “f” sound) that the locals simply call Whaka for short. Here is the name of one town that we don’t even attempt to pronounce and have no idea what the locals call it: Taumatawhakatangihangakoauauotamateapokaiwhenuakitanatahu. Since in Maori this has specific meaning, one witty writer described this name as, “a very lean short story.”

We drove south in order to get to Waiotapu in time to see the 10:15 erupting of the famous Lady Knox geyser. Unlike Old Faithful, however, this geyser gets some help with its exactly timed eruption--the Department of Conservation ranger type added a surfactant (like soap) to help it erupt on schedule. Cheating!  The rest of the park area did not disappoint. We spent an hour and a half walking the couple of miles of trails going by steaming lakes, bubbling pots, and colorful terraces, as well as mud pots and barren landscapes.

Champagne Pool

Devil's Bath at Waiotapu                                                          

Once again we picnicked for lunch and then drove back towards Rotorua to see the “newest geothermal system in the World”. Waimangu volcanic valley was created by the eruption of Mt. Tarawera in 1886 and modified by smaller eruptions within the area in 1900 and again in 1917. For a few years, it boasted the world’s largest geyser (1300 ft.) but it blew up and is no more! It was an easy 3 mile downhill walk with a short, steep climb up and down the Mt. Haszard hiking trail in the middle. It was a relaxing and beautiful hike. The entire area is reforested and is quite green with occasional long views to Lake Rotomahana in the distance. Nonetheless, rocks, streams and lakes steam and hiss and boil along the way and present in vivid blues, greens, or yellows depending on temperature, minerals, or algae. At the bottom of the hill we happily to took the shuttle bus back to the top of the ridge. A most interesting day.

Waimangu, Frying Pan Lake

Very warm water                                    

Inferno Crater Lake

Lake Rotomahana

Unrelated observations:

--a torch is a flashlight

--Kiwis seem to like to abbreviate words with the use of “ies” as in boaties, surfies, bikies, yachties, and our favorite, mozzies (mosquitoes)

--also new to us was carvery (restaurant) , cattery (kennel for cats), and cheesery

--Kiwis as a people have a quirky sense of humor. Recently we saw the following on the side of a liquor delivery truck: “in case of spill, lick road.”

The Shire

We are Lord of the Ring movie enthusiasts and have been excited to be experiencing the gorgeous New Zealand scenery where the films were shot.  Mostly we’ve just traveled in some of the different areas around where the film was shot and not actually hunted down the exact locations.  However, on Friday afternoon, we went to The Shire. It is now a tourist attraction called Hobbition Movie Set and Farm Tours in the middle of the countryside outside of Matamata about 30 minutes from where we are now living in Putaruru. The countryside is all green rolling hills with hedgerows and paddocks. Surely looks like Middle Earth!

Very sunny day--umbrella for shade!


Most people get to the site by shuttle bus from Matamata so the site was not very well signed. Mark did some good map reading and we pulled into the dusty parking area adjacent to a remodeled corrugated metal building just minutes before the tour was leaving. This is a fascinating tourist attraction. The site is an actual working sheep farm of 1250 acres, 12000 sheep and a few hundred beef cattle.

Bag End with hobbit-wannabes



We climbed on an older bus with another 15 or so people (including Germans, Brits, Aussies, a Canadian) and rattled off down a dirt road filled with gates that had to be opened and closed every time we went through. The sheep scattered as the bus rumbled by. The driver kept up a running “insider” kind of commentary full of tidbits about the filming, the actors, Peter Jackson, and, of course, what was filmed where.

Middle Earth

We saw the real (Radiata Pine) party tree, party grounds, and lake where Bilbo’s 111th birthday party takes place. Tidbit: the beer they are all drinking in the scene was actual brewed beer but with only 1% alcohol since Jackson wanted the real look but not drunk actors. We saw about 17 white façade hobbit holes including Bag End. Tidbit: New Line Cinema had begun and intended to complete demolishing the entire set but heavy rains interfered. At that point, the Alexander family began negotiations about retaining what was left of the set. Now, preparations have begun for the filming of The Hobbit at the same site. We walked up and down the hills amongst the sheep. After an hour and a half of tramping, we were requested to clean our shoes on the provided mounted brushes and reboard the bus.

The party tree, field, lake

An artist's rendition of the same scene with Gandolf and Froddo looking at the party tree and field.

The end of the tour was an informational, up close demonstration of sheep shearing and an opportunity to bottle feed a few lambs. After all, it is a sheep farm.