Te Urewera Forest

During this time of vacation, Mark was eager to do some kind of guided tramp. I always enjoy a good hike but have never been much interested in backpacking so I tried hard to be (cautiously) encouraging of the idea. I was worried that I could get very wet and very cold and might not be “up” to the more strenuous hiking. We decided that a one nighter would be a good compromise.

We investigated several companies and finally decided on Te Urewera Treks. They offered 1, 2, or 3 day guided treks into the Te Urewera Rainforest. The descriptions meshed with what we were hoping for--eco-cultural wilderness treks, special guided walking experience, knowledgeable Maori guides. Day one of the 2 day trek promised a “wilderness trek over rugged terrain…of moderate difficulty… about 6-7 hours at a leisurely pace with frequent rests.” (Moderate is good….leisurely is good….) Day two promised a hike through the “Whirinaki Forest Park…following a loop trail through enormous podocarp trees…abundance of native birdlife…about 4-5 hours including breaks.” In emailing with Jo from Te Urewera Treks, we discovered that we would only be required to carry our own day backpacks--a relief since we don’t have big packs with us. All this sounded good but the clincher for us was the promise of overnighting in a “comfortable private bush camp, with hot showers, a BBQ dinner and good New Zealand wine.” Sounded too good to be true!

We pulled into Joe and Jo Doherty’s house south of Rotorua about 9 AM on Saturday morning. They welcomed us into their home and served up cookies and hot drinks while they finished up all the last minute details of our trek plus the tree planting/hike of a couple from The Netherlands. We all piled into a van and set out. The Dutch couple would be guided by Jacob and John. Joe would be our guide.

Having grown up in the exact area we were to hike, Joe was a fount of information. He was both knowledgeable and very well spoken. It was interesting to learn that he had worked in Wellington for some 20 years and that both he and his wife Jo were actively involved in the beginnings and opening of the wonderful Te Papa museum we visited there. Our hike started with a Maori incantation as we strangers entered their lands and the protection of their gods. Coming from Joe it was sincere and real, not hokey or put on.

We hiked up and down valleys and along ridge tops with views in both directions. Joe told us historical stories, talked about cultural issues, pointed out wildlife, and instructed us in trees and other vegetation. It was a long hike but the pace was doable and the breaks were frequent enough. Nonetheless, we were pleased when we scrambled down the last steep hillside and walked into the bush camp. Jacob and John and two new Dutch ladies were already sitting around the table having a glass of wine. Soon we were, too. After a few nibblies and while dinner was being prepared, we tried out the showers. Indeed, plenty of gas fired hot water. What a treat after a long day‘s hike!

Dinner included steaks grilled to our specifications and a yummy homemade tart made by Jo. We lingered around the fire and then retreated to our roomy tent and beds--substantial air mattresses on cots and two sleeping bags each. I snuggled into bed with my hot water bottle (which it turns out they have available, too) and was toasty all night.

Breakfast in the morning was a feast--eggs, bread toasted on a rack by the fire, grilled tomatoes, mushrooms and ham, cereal, muesli, yogurt, fruit, juice, hot coffee. Well fortified, we loaded into the van and motored over to Whirinaki Forest. The promised 4-5 hour hike was through this podocarp forest. Indigenous to NZ, the five podocarp trees (coniferous) we encountered were like nothing we have ever seen. We hiked along the Whirinaki River up to a waterfall for lunch, observing the podocarps, tree ferns, ferns, mosses, and fungi along the way. Such lush forest!

Completing our hike, we piled back into the van for the trip back to Doherty’s house where we once again sat around the table and had hot drinks and cookies. The Dutch ladies went on their way but Joe escorted us to a nearby hot river for a soak. It was amazing. We and a few other folks sat in 104 degree flowing water below a small waterfall surrounded by trees and shrubs. It was almost too hot for Mark! A remarkable end to a remarkable two days.