Bay of Islands--part 1

The Bay of Islands is a tourist destination area. Beaches, water activities of all kinds, and fishing top the list of attractions. The larger area has several small towns--Paihia, Russell, Kerikeri, and Waitangi--that cluster around the bay. Each town has its own “flavor”. The Bay itself has some 20 islands large enough to land on and hundreds of rocky islets of various sizes. It is very picturesque.

We knew that we would be going on a previously booked sailing trip in the Bay of Islands so concentrated first on doing some land activities. Our hotel was located just minutes from the Waitangi Treaty Grounds so we felt somewhat obliged to go visit the birthplace of modern New Zealand. Once there, however, we found the grounds and the history fascinating.

So, a short history lesson as I understand it………The Maori are considered the indigenous peoples of NZ having arrived from Polynesia some 800 years ago. They are comprised of many different tribes (iwis) which in the past were often at war with one another. Small numbers of Europeans arrived in NZ by the late 1700s. Those numbers grew steadily. Conflicts between Maori and the white people also grew.

On February 6, 1840, the Treaty of Waitangi was signed by many North Island Maori tribe chiefs and a representative of the British Crown. The treaty was subsequently taken around to chiefs all over both islands. Basically, the treaty gave the Maori protection but the Crown sovereignty. That sounds easy but is incredibly complex.  Maori translations of the treaty did not match British versions, and there is still no consensus as to exactly what was agreed on. Even current day opinions on the subject are deeply held and can be quite divisive. In 1975, a commission, the Waitangi Tribunal, was established to research breaches of the treaty by the Crown and to suggest ways to redress wrongs. The courts continue to hear cases today.

In 1932, the Treaty House and Grounds (plus some 1000 acres of land in trust) were actually bought and gifted to the people of New Zealand by the British Governor-General Lord Bledisloe and his wife. A huge waka (war canoe) and national marae (Maori meeting house) were also built on the grounds for the 1940 centennial celebration. It was seen as a time of some reconciliation.  Seeing history is always more interesting than just reading it.


The other fun thing we did in Waitangi was a pleasant hike to some very large mangrove swamps. A substantial winding boardwalk has been built through the swamps. We walked in filtered sun along the boardwalk at low tide. We’ve only been in mangrove swamps when the tide is in. Obvious everywhere as we walked were what looked like little gray sticks poking up through the swamp mud. We were also intrigued by an intermittent sharp snapping sound like that of popping popcorn. Fortunately for us, midway through the swamp, a signboard informed us that the popping sound was caused by tiny snapping shrimp who live in burrows in the swampy ground and that the little gray “sticks” were root extensions of the mangrove trees called pneumatophores. Mid swamp we also stopped to watch a white faced heron stalking through the mud.

Also in Waitangi, we saw more tui birds (black with a white feather tuft at the neck). Their intriguing song reminds me of a cross between R2D2 and the clicking sound made by the Kalahari bushman in the movie The Gods Must Be Crazy. Another new favorite NZ bird is the fantail. One danced before us on the trail as we hiked out from the mangrove swamp. The fantail moves quickly and is constantly opening and closing its tail like…you guessed it… a fan.