Huashan

Admittedly, we were tired tourists by our time in Xian and the weather was hot. We were also weary of the omnipresent smog. Thankfully, Carrie, the guide, kept us informed and moving. We did miss, however, our wonderful Beijing guide Annie. Mark noted that Carrie was associated with the government endorsed CITS (China International Travel Service) while Annie was an independent, self-employed guide. Carrie did an adequate job; Annie did an exceptional job. Carrie took us to fancy buffet-style lunches and never ate with us; Annie took us to interesting restaurants frequented by Chinese, ordered dishes she wanted us to try, and ate every lunch with us. There was a remarkable difference so we wondered.

Our favorite day in Xian was an all day trip to Huashan Mountain (shan actually means mountain) which is known as 'The Number One Precipitous Mountain under Heaven' . Due to highway construction, the drive took two and a half hours each way. We took our hotel pillows with us despite odd looks and polite inquiries from the hotel desk!

Along the way, we were struck again by the number and variety of vehicles one sees on the road in China--from old basic bicycles to sleek Mercedes. It is those in-between, of course, that are more interesting. Bicycle carts were a staple on the streets and carried everything from watermelons to a broken down motorcycle to cell phone toting women. Motorcycles and mopeds were in abundance and often carried three and even four people, the fourth being a child standing in front of the driver. There were also three-wheeled motorcycles with enclosed passenger areas behind the driver. Carrie said they are called “bam-bams” because of the quality? of the ride. Out in the country, we saw dozens of slow moving but powerful three-wheeled trucks with and without cabs. They all seemed to be bright blue……? Along the way, we also passed little rural restaurants entitled “peasant family happiness” when Carrie translated the characters.

We arrived at the base of the mountain area about 10:30--too early for lunch, we thought. However, the plan was to have lunch. We countered that maybe we could have a snack and do lunch later. We then experienced a phenomenon that we had read about but had not yet encountered. Apparently, in China, guides will rarely say, “No.” Instead, there will just be lots of confusion--in our case, it was they don’t have snacks, would we like to carry rice with us, late lunch will be really late? Slowly, it dawned on us that we should just eat lunch. When we asked Carrie if that would be best, she seemed relieved and instantly replied, “YES!” We ate lunch--a prearranged feast that could have fed 4-5 people. Ok, now we can go hiking.

We were expecting a typical mountain hike. I guess we should have known that China is rarely typical. The hike began with a bus ride to a steep cable car that carried us up the side of the “Precipitous” mountain. From the top of the cable car we joined hundreds (thousands even?) of other tourists hiking the path carved into the face of the rock and traversing along narrow ridges. We were literally in a slow moving queue up the mountainside. Of course, that wasn’t so bad since it was also nearly vertical in places. I carried my umbrella the whole way using it as a cane when not using it for shade.

Along the way, we climbed the (alternately named Black, Green, and Blue but actually translated Dark) Dragon Ridge. The Chinglish sign read, “….as the ridg eis black and like the dragon, the name was gained…the middleis outstanding and the side is low the bottom is bottomles….” We passed poetry carved into the rock, stalls selling food and drink, a Taoist temple, and heavy chain fences festooned with golden “love locks” that can be purchased, engraved, and then locked in place on the fence. We also saw many women sporting elasticized arm covers (from wrist to upper arm) protecting their arms from tanning. White skin indicates upper class while the tanned darker skin indicates rural peasant. Even with my sunscreen usage, I am probably a peasant.

We hiked to Wuyun Peak at about 6,000 feet. The sign read, “The pines and cypresses stand high on its top. It is often shrouded By the multicolored clouds.” We could see a hotel on the mountain above us. Along the way up and down, we encountered several porters balancing goods bound for the hotels on either end of long poles. Carrie said they don’t get paid much--can you imagine that happening in the States?

The drive to and from Huashan reminded us again that driving in China is an art form, almost a dance. The drivers weave and thread, constantly playing a kind of “chicken” to see who will go first. The drivers also know their vehicles’ dimensions down to scant millimeters. We couldn’t imagine driving in China as we did in New Zealand and Australia. In fact, we never really understood the rules of the road. Turning in front of oncoming traffic, going the wrong way on a street, driving through stoplights--in certain circumstances, all seemed acceptable. Oh, my….although incredibly long (8 AM-8 PM), the day was fabulous!

Thursday night, Carrie and Ren dropped us at the airport and we flew back to Beijing. Friday morning we flew home--beautiful words!!

Xian, July 19-22

We were in Xian for two full days and two half days. Once again, we were met at the airport by a pre-arranged guide and driver, Carrie and Ren. These days, Xian is known for the Terracotta Soldiers. However, it is an ancient city with thousands of years of history. It was the capital city for several dynasties and was also the eastern end of the famous Silk Road trade route.

Today, Xian is an amazingly pristine city of 7 million people featuring a diverse economy, modern freeways (ring roads) and many educational institutions. There are eight different rivers that flow through and around Xian and much farmland nearby. The city itself is beautiful and has an inner city completely surrounded by the restored original 1000 year old city wall. At night, the wall is lit with red lanterns and nearby trees are spotlighted with green. The effect is wonderful.

Since I am now back in Olympia, I’ll summarize some of the sights we saw in historical chronologic order rather than do a day by day account. The oldest site we visited was the Banpo Museum, an archeological dig site discovered in the 1950s. It is a 6000 year old Neolithic village featuring what was believed to be a matriarchal society. The sign declared it to be…”a bright pearl of human art culture…” Hut foundations, painted pottery, jewelry of bone and shell, burial sites, and a moat could be seen. It was interesting.

The next sight, the terracotta soldiers, were discovered in 1974 and date from around 200 B.C. in the Qin (pronounced “chin“) dynasty. Chinese history is all about the different dynasties (25 or so) and the times of war in-between. Very gradually, we began to get a timeline in our heads and to at least recognize a few of the most famous or memorable of the dynasties/emperors. Qin Shi Huang, or the first emperor of unified China, was a very ambitious man. Besides the terracotta soldiers (his own massive mausoleum), he standardized written language and money, built the Great Wall by extending and connecting existing walls, and constructed many roads and canals. He was ruthless and taxed the people heavily. Revolt ended his relatively short life and reign.

The terracotta soldiers are as incredible to see as one would expect. They are life-like and life-sized and vary in height, uniform, posture, and hairstyle according to function and rank. Originally, the unique figures were painted (now faded) and had actual weapons (mostly stolen). There are infantry and archers, foot soldiers and generals (only 7 found out of the 8,000 soldiers), horses and chariots. There are several buildings displaying the different dig locations or pits. The first building we entered was the size of a couple of football fields and was filled with other tourists viewing the standing soldiers from a raised walkway around the periphery. Equally interesting to us were the unreconstructed pits--a mass of broken pieces in disarray. The restoration work done has been almost inconceivable.

We also visited another mausoleum called the Han Yangling of Liu Qi known as Emperor Jingdi from the Han dynasty (200 B.C.-200 A.D.). How is that for a mouthful? To add to our confusion all the emperors have two names! The Han dynasty was known for its peace and prosperity and a happier general population. It is no mistake then that everything is done on a lesser scale (fewer resources used and taxes required). The figures are one-tenth actual size and include musicians and dancers as well as soldiers and female cavalrymen who are recognizable by their big “chicks” (cheeks) as our guide said. The simple figures were originally dressed in clothing and had wooden arms. There were also very cute clay dogs, pigs, chickens, goats and sheep, cows and horses. We chuckled at the reduced genitalia of the clay eunuchs (a couple of things missing….).

We visited a couple of places from the 7th century Tang dynasty also. First was a large, still functioning Buddhist temple called the Big Wild Goose Pagoda. Repaired often through the centuries, the temple is surrounded by a beautiful park.

Near Lishan (or Li Mountain) is an area of hot springs used by the ancient emperors for over 3000 years. During the Tang dynasty a palace was built on the site. The Winter Palace is known now for its many constructed hot pools and also the romantic but tragic love story of Emperor Xuanzong (685-762) and his concubine Lady Yang. The lady was one of the “Four Great Beauties” of ancient China. She was known for her plump, voluptuous body as well as “a face that puts all flowers to shame.” Apparently, the emperor was so distracted by the lady that he ended up losing his kingdom….she, on the other hand, ended up losing her life!

One evening we went to The Tang Dynasty Music and Dance Show, a “must see” show in Xian, which included dinner and a 90 minute show. A 20 piece orchestra of ancient Chinese instruments and a dozen singers performed and then provided the music for a series of excellent dance performances. The dancers were clad in an ever changing succession of iridescent, brilliantly hued, flowing costumes and intricate headgear. It was captivating.

We visited two other places during our time in Xian. The Forest of Stone Steles Museum houses 3000 steles or large stone tablets in seven different exhibition halls. Here history, painting and poetry, classics and calligraphy are literally carved in stone. Many people do or buy rubbings. It was initially established in 1087. We had fun wandering the rooms, watching a rubbing in process, posing with Confucius, and finding one ancient tablet telling of early Nestorian (eventually considered heretical) Christianity in China.

The last historical place we visited was ONLY 400 years old. The Gao Family home is an example of a traditional Chinese dwelling of a high official in the 1600s and sits in the middle of an area of Xian known as the Muslim Quarter. Our tour was somewhat rushed since the provided guide seemed more interested in getting us to a tea tasting (which we declined) than in showing us the house. Afterwards, we walked through the very busy markets of the Muslim Quarter. Mark bought some dried dates and we ogled the yummy looking street food and the poor caged crickets for sale.
 

The Wedding-July 17

We were surprised to learn that the wedding would be at 10 AM. Charlotte then explained that for a first time marriage, tradition dictates that the wedding must be conducted in the morning and the reception must start before noon. Zhiyong arranged for his sister to pick us up at the hotel and get us to the church. We also picked up Natalie who would help translate the day for us.

At the church, we joined lots of Zhiyong’s family and friends already sitting in the pews up front. There was a buzz of excitement in the air and everyone looked in our direction when we arrived. Mark went off to make sure of a few things and I was suddenly the center of attention. There was a rush (feeding frenzy?) to take pictures with me (plastic smile set in big time). A few braved trying out some English on me. Shortly after, Charlotte and Zhiyong arrived by limousine and it was time to begin. The close family was ushered in (a new experience for both usher and those being ushered) to recorded strains of Pachelbel and Handel, if I remember correctly. I thought Charlotte’s many “aunts” were looking pleased and proud.

In most weddings in my experience, music is the most easily messed up element--especially if using recorded music. This proved to be true again. The traditional wedding march (with added church bells!) got started early and the previously informed folks didn’t know whether to stand up (as they had been told to) or stay seated--they all kept looking at me and I kept looking at Mark who was shaking his head up front. Abruptly, the music stopped (Charlotte sent a runner from back to front, I think). With new music, Zhiyong finished ushering in his parents and joined Mark, John Lin, and I-I up front. THEN Wagner’s “Here Comes the Bride” complete with grand chiming church bells rang out, I stood and so did the other few who were still seated.

At the far end of the aisle, Charlotte and both of her parents began the long slow walk to the front of church. It was an emotion filled moment. Charlotte looked radiant in her dress, veil, and tiara. Ladies, the off-shoulder dress was embroidered and pearl beaded with three-quarter length sheer trumpet-shaped sleeves and a lengthy flowing train perfect for the large cathedral. Her parents looked both proud and solemn. Up front, the music stopped, Yongxing raised the veil and kissed his daughter and handed her to Zhiyong. Mark led the wedding group up the stairs to the main stage area.

The ceremony proceeded as planned. A favorite poem was read (ask me and I’ll send you the translation) and two Bible passages were also read. I was surprised that the crowd did not react much to the unity candle sparkler--I was expecting oohs and aahs. Maybe this is old hat to the Chinese? It wasn’t to me! Mark’s and Wang Hui’s voices rang out over the crowd. Charlotte’s and Zhiyong’s were quieter while exchanging their vows.

About half way through, there was some increased noise in the cathedral. Turns out the church coordinator or one of the women at the front door had commented to some tourists who had come to see the church that there was an actual Western wedding going on inside and would they like to see. Later, Charlotte said that there were probably an extra 40 people crowding into the front pews along with a couple of small children racing around. Felt a bit circus-like although Mark was mostly oblivious, he said.

The happy bride was kissed and Mr. and Mrs. Wang were announced and…the recessional music did not start. The couple after a brief pause decided to exit anyway. While embracing their parents along the way, the music started up and both sets of parents and then all the close family members followed the bridal party out of the church onto the church steps for various family and friends group photos. What a joyous time!

Charlotte's family

I-I and John Lin

We, along with Natalie, were directed to a car for the short trip back to downtown to the reception hall. Our driver raced ahead and we actually got to watch the long, white, stretch limousine arrive under a red inflatable wedding arch amid hundreds of bursting firecrackers. As the bridal couple entered I spied Charlotte’s fancy sparkling red shoes under her dress. Charlotte said Shuzhen found them!

The reception was held at a large local dinner theater venue. The hall was filled with ample round tables with lazy susans which were clustered around a vast, well-lit stage. Playing on a big screen behind the stage were pictures of Zhiyong and Charlotte during their courtship time as well as professionally taken engagement pictures in various lovely settings featuring the bridal couple in multiple different outfits. We especially liked the black and white photos of Zhiyong and Charlotte in traditional Chinese dress.

The tables became laden with food as platter after platter kept arriving. Even with an interpreter, we didn’t understand everything that was happening on stage. Things we caught: the couple were introduced, the parents were honored, the bride got teary (I folded up a tissue to give her and the eagle-eyed Zhiyong saw it and reached down to grab it), there were toasts given by different family representatives, the bridal couple poured wine to overflowing on a tower of stacked wine glasses (I‘m sure there is some symbolism there), the cake was cut and with much crowd hilarity the bride and groom served each other with chopsticks (although no one else ever got cake). One final fun thing: the bride and groom drank from glasses passed around each other’s neck which, of course, required interesting and crowd pleasing close body contortions. Very fun!

The bridal couple also changed clothing during the celebration resulting in four different combinations. Charlotte wore the big white wedding dress, a more traditional high-necked body fitting red silk dress, a sleeveless red dress with gorgeous extravagant bow in back, and a bright blue sleeveless evening gown. Zhiyong had some very handsome suits. (Obviously I was more focused on Charlotte. Sorry, Zhiyong!)

Since the reception took place in a restaurant with a floor show, we were treated to the usual floor show as part of the reception. Suffice it to say, it was not your usual Western wedding reception entertainment fare. The Chinese tradition dictates that the bridal couple visit and toast every table of guests. The guests pretty much eat, drink, and leave with the couple being the last to leave the reception. There is no dancing!

We left feeling lots of different things--happiness, a sense of completion, gratitude, relief, a deep sense of joy. We retreated to our hotel room for an afternoon nap and a quiet evening. Done………God's blessings on Chun Quang and Zhiyong.

Wedding Rehearsal, July 16

It was very good to have a wedding rehearsal. None of the participants in this wedding except Charlotte and her parents had ever even been to a traditional (Western) Christian wedding. The undertaking was somewhat daunting. While Zhiyong and Charlotte talked specifics with the church’s coordinator (who took some time in arriving), Mark and Wang Hui practiced how they would alternate speaking. The entire wedding was scripted so Mark would read his part and then Wang Hui would read the translation. She had a clear, ringing voice and did a beautiful job. We had tried the church’s microphones but they distorted the sound so badly we decided to do without.

Charlotte had done the translation and had bounced it off of Dong Ying. Since no one in the crowd would be Christian, Charlotte and Zhiyong were intent on making the ceremony and message understandable. No Chinese “Christianeze“, please. Dong Ying gave good feedback, Charlotte said.

The other readers practiced (were encouraged to speak out), while the best man and maid of honor figured out where to stand and what other duties they had (such as arranging Charlotte’s wedding dress train). In Chinese tradition there is only one attendant each for bride and groom. The attendants need to be single and somewhat related even if distantly. They are not necessarily friends in particular (which can lead to some interesting interactions and motivations other than the wellbeing of the bride or groom). However, I-I, the maid of honor, and John Lin, the best man, were attentive and good humored and fulfilled their roles well.

We also needed to check the logistics of the unity candle--sounds simple, right? Well, this was a unity candle with a Chinese twist. The mothers would light the two simple tapers but the unity candle itself was to be placed on an elaborate rectangular 1.5 ft by 3 ft portable platform. The big red unity candle sat atop a rotating pedestal surrounded by tall glittering lighted (choices of white, pink, or blue) columns which were controlled by remote. In addition, the coordinator taped a fat sparkler to the side of the candle. She then turned on all the sparkling and pulsing lights, lit the sparkler, and jumped when it sparked to life. We all laughed and she was a little embarrassed, I think. Charlotte asked my opinion of the ensemble and I thought it was delightfully Chinese. In the end, they chose the white lights and the coordinator operated it from stage right, I believe.

We were at the church until late and even had various Chinese and Russian tourists who wandered through while we were rehearsing (the cathedral is one of the Manzhouli sights to see). I got a little spooked at one point when I was totally surrounded by mostly Chinese men (Charlotte had made some comment about government officials coming through). I sort of shielded myself behind one of the columns but John Lin nicely came and found me and told me it was ok to sit in the pews. I just didn’t want to be in the forefront of the pictures that were being taken….We didn’t get to bed until after 11 PM. A long but fascinating day.

July 16

all Manzhouli signs are in Mongolian, Chinese, and Russian

Friday morning, the group had a little trouble getting started but we finally assembled at 10:30 on the bus for our prairie “field trip”. The delay was also somewhat due to the fact that Zhiyong was out gathering supplies for what turned out to be a picnic feast. Charlotte and Zhiyong did not accompany us since they had errands to run and Zhiyong’s father was due in on the train.

On board the bus as we traveled out into the countryside, we watched and listened to seemingly endless Mongolian or Tibetan music videos . You could even follow the Chinese characters turning red to sing along (instead of following the bouncing ball). A few of the folks did sing along.

Manzhouli is completely surrounded by wide open rolling grassland prairie. It reminded us of Montana or Wyoming although there were no mountains in the distance. There were, however, some angry looking clouds in the distance. We drove about an hour west on a very narrow and uneven highway. Along the way, we saw small villages, smoky charcoal making “plants” plus sheep, cows, goats, donkeys, and horses grazing along the roadside. Eventually we drove off the road onto a deeply rutted dirt road leading to a small cluster of yurts.

The group was quite excited that there was a fresh water spring here. Many filled their water bottles with the sweet tasting water. I-i even dumped the water out of her purchased water bottle to fill it with this spring water. Although it reminded us of Olympia’s artesian well water, we chose not to risk tasting it. There was a shrine of sorts at the spring and I-i thought that it indicated the area had been blessed. The people in the surrounding yurts totally ignored us and just went about their own business. We found it odd but didn’t get an explanation.

Not speaking the language has definite drawbacks. At times we felt a little out of it, or confused, and occasionally helpless. I guess that is why people do guided tours in China!! Of course, we wouldn’t swap our incredible experiences for the comfort of a guided tour any day!

Next we all set out walking across the prairie while the bus drove around and met us on a hillside overlooking a small lake, nearby grazing flocks of sheep and goats, and a small town along the road in the distance. When a large herd of horses came galloping out of nowhere to the lake, everyone, including us, got very excited and animated. There were probably a hundred horses and several foals. The horses were owned by the Mongolian people living in the yurts but were semi-wild and somewhat skittish when we tried to get very close.

We probably spent close to three hours in this spot--walking the hills, gorging on the gourmet picnic fixings, getting a charcoal fire going to cook meat-and-fat skewers (really good), dodging the rain, and finally watching a thunder and lightening storm swirl its way across the grasslands towards us.

When we loaded back up and lumbered off in the bus, Mark and I assumed that we were done for the day but we were wrong. There was one abortive attempt to go through a large farm (too muddy) and the bus had to back out the way it came in. We never found out what that was about.

Finally, with Manzhouli visible, we turned off the road along another rutted but flag festooned dirt road leading to a large complex of large and small yurts. This turned out to be a commercial establishment. Some of us, myself included, took a horseback ride. We also took pictures with a cranky 11-year old dromedary who complained loudly and spat and got nuzzled by a curious 3-year old dromedary who also spat (much to everyone’s amusement when one of the aunts caught it full on in her face). We all also used the latrine which sported two rectangular holes in the floor over a pit…..oh, well, life in the country.

The visit culminated in an extravagant Mongolian dinner. First course included blood sausage, tripe, liver, heart, and rice and lamb sausage. We were also entertained by singers and musicians--rock-n-roll meets Mongolia. One young man in a long black embroidered coat sporting slick-backed hair made us chuckle to each other--Elvis has entered the room or, wait, was it Elton?! Another played an electronic keyboard. However, two young men were playing the authentic horse-head fiddle called a morin khuur which is Mongolia’s national instrument. A couple of young women in ethnic clothing rounded out the group.

horse-head fiddles

There was a rice wine drinking ceremony (kind of like downing shots of tequila) which involved throwing back three bowlfuls and getting draped by a white scarf as a reward. Someone motioned towards Mark but I scowled and waved them off. At that point, a hot-rock roasted goat was carried in and Charlotte’s father was designated to partake in a ceremony of some sort accepting the goat, I guess (there is that language gap again).

We then all ate goat meat!  Mark and I also were offered a few tasty vegetable dishes that had been ordered by some in the group who were sick of meat (and other animal products). Ah….. Just about that time the bride and groom appeared and we found out that there was to be a wedding rehearsal at the church that night. A bit later Charlotte’s sister Wang Hui, I-I, Dong Ying, Mark, and I loaded into a taxi and careened off into town.

A Few Random Other Things

Toilets (for women) in China are different than in the US. Most bathrooms offer a rectangular, porcelain, flushable trough in the floor which one must squat over. Rarely is toilet paper provided so one learns to carry tissues. In the airports or in more Western oriented establishments, stalls with conventional Western toilets are offered along with the Chinese option (pictures on the doors indicate which is which). Annie, our Beijing guide, told me at one point, however, that pedestal toilets in public places are generally only for the infirm and are considered unclean by most Chinese women. Different strokes for different folks, huh?

In all the cities that we have visited, we have observed outdoor “gyms” in parks and green spaces. Most Chinese live in very small apartments so outdoor venues for exercise are frequented by many. These outdoor gyms offer many different kinds of simple but interesting equipment.

park group exercising

outdoor gym

When we first arrived in Dalian, we were very pleased to have internet in our hotel. Then suddenly we couldn’t sign on any more. We had Charlotte help us ask the front desk about this and the intonation of their reply even in Chinese sounded like, “Well,duh!” Charlotte was a little confused also until she talked to her dad. Turns out that the Chinese government had banned hotels from enabling internet in their establishments during the World Cup final. This was intended to put the kibosh on gambling. Interesting, huh?

A sweet memory from the wedding was Charlotte’s cousin Dong Ying taking pictures with a digital camera. She had never had a camera before and when Charlotte gave her a camera to use and told her to take pictures of everything, Dong Ying was like a kid with a new toy! She took on her assignment with joyous abandon and was everywhere taking pictures of everything. This included taking pictures of herself at arm’s length in front of the afore mentioned everything!

Charlotte and Dong Ying--Manzhouli was FULL of statues!

Here are a couple of Mark’s favorite things in Manzhouli. Zhiyong introduced us to a local blueberry drink which was just yummy--not syrupy at all and with actual berries in it, too. The other thing was quite hilarious. There was a street hawker who kept trying to sell him a glass cutter--what, so he could break in some place more easily??! "Do I look like a cat burglar?", says Mark.

July 15

Thursday morning, we had breakfast in our room--our coffee and milk, fruit, and bread.  Just enough and no hassle.  The day was predicted to be rainy so our outing for the day was changed from going to the prairie to staying closer to Manzhouli.  By 9:30, Charlotte’s entire family plus Mark and I (but minus the wedding couple) were assembled and on the bus.  It felt like we were going on a school field trip--arranged by Zhiyong and led by his cousin.  We were  relieved that I-i, Charlotte’s maid of honor, was able to speak English.  (About the name--Charlotte said she changed it for some reason.  We’re guessing on the spelling but it was pronounced E-e.)

First stop was the Chinese/Russian border.  The border is marked by impressive massive arches on both sides.  Most Chinese buy a single ticket and walk through the gate in the fence to get into the area near the border to view the other side as well as to see the different gauge train tracks--not the same in the two countries.  Zhiyong had arranged for our entire bus to go through so we didn’t have to go as individuals.  At one point a police car stopped the bus but Zhiyong’s cousin hopped out, showed the appropriate paper, and we were allowed entry.  Our bus trundled through and we all disembarked and started walking around the grounds.  This was the innocent beginning to our troubles.  Unbeknownst to any of us, this area is for Chinese ONLY.  After about 30 minutes of wandering around, we were following Zhiyong’s cousin to the stairway inside the massive arch that gives views to the tracks and into Russia, when suddenly we were surrounded by 8-10 Chinese uniformed police. 

I heard later that Charlotte’s mom was initially excited because she thought it was a kind of “changing of the guard”.  In fact, she instructed Charlotte’s cousin Dong Ying to take lots of pictures.  Well, no, that was not the case.  We, Mark and I, were the cause of the police!!  We were to be escorted out of this sensitive Chinese Only area!  So the entire group started nervously walking out followed closely by the police.

soldiers following us all

Apparently, the police were actually apologizing to the group but indicated that “rules are rules”.  We all ended up with stifled giggles and much hilarity on the bus as we waited for one missing couple from our group.  Since we had time, I decided to go with others to the W.C. and the soldiers followed me there and back to the bus again.  Shuzhun protectively stayed with me the entire time.  Later, Charlotte indicated that the police wanted to avoid any news of our being in the sensitive area from getting out since “U.S./China relations are strained right now”.  Yikes!

The group seemed to take it all in stride and no one indicated to us, at least, disappointment over being kicked out.  We were sad because we caused problems but also because we had been looking forward to see the mechanics of changing from one gauge to another gauge of railroad.  While sitting on the bus waiting to leave, we saw one train entering China with over 60 carloads of Russian logs.  It is a very busy port.

From the border, we bussed to Manzhouli’s big tourist site--the famous giant matrouska doll park. There are over 200 representative huge dolls here including a couple that are 90 feet tall.  Opened in 2006,  I don’t think this area has any other purpose than as a tourist stop.  It was raining fairly hard and the group wasn’t interested in lingering.  Mark and I were fascinated by the strange variety of dolls--Abe Lincoln to Chopin to Michael Jordan!  There were dolls representing different countries although we never found the one for the USA.  We also scurried over to a very Russian looking, bright blue building topped with onion domes.  Zhiyong’s cousin thought it was some kind of church.  Wrong!  It was filled with paintings of women in various states of undress…huh?

Next stop was, of course, lunch!  We ate heartily AGAIN.  One of the aunts carefully produced matching forks for us from a little pouch.  They had red plastic handles with pictures of little bears on them and were a matched set--“Tina” and “Ted”.  I was never able to ask but I think she bought them specially for us.  She produced them again at every meal.  We felt well looked after.

The afternoon was on our own--we took naps and caught up on emails a little.  We found that if we put the computer in the open window of our hotel room, we could pick up an unsecured site (called 5FCOFFEE) at different times.

Zhiyong made sure that we were planning on coming to dinner since it was to be at a favorite Mongolian restaurant.  We assured him that we would be in attendance.  At the restaurant, we were ushered into two small rooms featuring large wok-like boiling pots set into the middle of the tables.  Mark sat with me so we could talk with Charlotte.  The pot was simmering with a kind of savory soup/stew of a whole fish, potatoes, eggplant, beef, onions, and tofu. They stirred in a plate of noodles and we all dug in.  It was marvelous!  The beer and rice wine completed the dinner and all had a grand time!