July 11

Mark woke feeling better physically and was both determined and excited to honor Charlotte’s request.  Mark was so touched to be asked and we both feel this deepens the meaning of this trip even more than before.  Later on, Charlotte would conclude that this had been God’s plan all along.

We met Charlotte as promised for an early morning breakfast.  Charlotte took us to a little tiny restaurant just down the street and, after explaining all the choices to us, she ordered soft custard-like tofu served with an egg drop and soy sauce gravy, congee (rice porridge) with green peas, a steamed pork and cabbage bun, and fried dough that one dips in lightly sweetened soy milk.  We shared everything.  It was all interesting and most we found delicious (the congee was very bland to us).   We left well fortified although without our usual morning coffee (which gave us some sleepy moments later).

The three of us hopped on the already crowded bus and headed downtown for church.  The old church is in downtown Dalian where it once proudly towered over surrounding buildings but is now dwarfed by high-rises all around.  Arriving by 8:30, we were fortunate to find seats in the back of the crowded sanctuary.  There were several overflow rooms with big screens also full of people and stools were being set up outside.  The congregation was already singing with a song leader who was running them through the morning’s songs.  They had songbooks with words but no music.  Charlotte asked for Chinese/ English books for us and the usher produced both hymnbook (with music, too) and Bible.

The service included lots of singing and praying and Communion, so there was no long sermon.  This was easier for Charlotte who was scribbling things on a paper to keep us aware of what was going on just as she used to do for her parents at OCRC.  We were excited to sing He Lives and Jesus Keep Me Near the Cross.  It was a deep joy to sing these old hymns with believers across the world from where we live, and to realize that Christians for hundreds of years have been singing these same words and music.  I got a little teary--as often happens to me when singing in church, actually.  Comfort songs in the midst of a strange place.

The times of prayer were deeply moving.  Everyone stood through the entire prayers which lasted at least 10-15 minutes each time (maybe three times).  The minister would begin and continue to pray herself but within seconds everyone was praying in whispers. The whispers became spoken words which receded back to whispers again.  It was like riding a wave of sound and emotion.  I was amazed by the intensity, passion, and concentration of those around me.  I joined in but found I could not match their focused devotion.  The time of Communion was like at home.  We left feeling blessed.  We also left feeling the need for a coffee stop.  Charlotte found us a MacD’s where we all enjoyed a cup of very strong (sitting on the pot for a while--not a big seller here?) coffee.

Since we were not far from where Yong Shin’s mother/Charlotte’s grandmother lives, we taxied over to meet her.  She is a bright eyed diminutive woman who expressed regrets at not being able to speak with us in English.  We could only express the same about us and Chinese.  She lives in a large, spacious, elaborately decorated apartment.  We met several  other aunts and cousins who were also there.

We enjoyed a cup of tea and chatted with all before leaving to meet Shuzhun and Charlotte’s cousin Dong Ying at the tailor’s so Charlotte could have a final fitting of her traditional Chinese red wedding dress. Charlotte looked beautiful!!

 Next it was my turn to be measured.  Shuzhun had suggested that I might want to get some Chinese clothes tailored while in Dalian and I, of course, had readily agreed.  I decided on a simple, classic Chinese jacket that I will be able to wear with pants.  The cost was very reasonable (half of what would usually be charged a Westerner) due to the Wangs’ longtime connection with this husband and wife team.  Her parents will bring it to Olympia when they come in August.

Lunch was across the street at a Chinese food court of representative foods from different areas of China.  Shuzhun suggested that we circle the entire area, probably a dozen different stands, looking at the food available.  Charlotte described and explained all the food to us.  We eventually ended up with a corn flour steamed dumpling stuffed with shrimp and daikon, a flat fried dumpling stuffed with celery, and a large bowl of “goosebump” soup with little round noodles and a few veggies in a tasty broth. Mark and I shared all of these.  Lunch was just right in tastes and amounts.

After lunch Shuzhen walked us up the hill to catch the bus--smart lady.  We all got seats!  Heading back towards the apartment and hotel, Shuzhun and Dong Ying got off the bus and Yong Shin got on the bus with us.  We road the bus quite a ways to the start of a long new boardwalk along the water.  Charlotte had never been there even.

We followed the path up and over a hill with a view down to a beach area and then on to a newly built park and entertainment complex built on fill.  We marveled at all the construction going on in the area and plans for huge new fancy hotels.  We used our umbrellas first for light rain and then for bright sun as we walked.  We saw many fun and impressive statues, a “thousand footprint” installation commemorating Dalian’s centennial, a very long reflecting pools walkway, and a central plaza.  In the central plaza, was an immense “China Watch”.  This tall pillar is a bigger copy of the one that stands outside of the Forbidden City.  There was controversy surrounding its use in Dalian as it was originally intended to indicate the nearby presence of the emperor and was for his use only.  Charlotte expressed great respect for the previous mayor of Dalian who managed to make this happen. 

We all shared a taxi home, rested a bit, and then the Wangs walked us to a local restaurant for dinner where we all shared dish after dish.  One of our favorites was a garlic, eggplant, and pork dish.  Yong Shin talked Mark through how to make it so I’m hoping to have a repeat at home!

After dinner, the six of us (Dong Ying is living with Charlotte’s parents right now) walked through the neighborhood back alleys and then amidst sidewalk vendors on the main street to an area where some 30 to 40 women were line dancing to music.  Charlotte, Dong Ying, and I joined in as best we could.  On the way back, Shuzhun took my hand and we walked hand-in-hand back home.  It felt incredibly sweet.

Chinese hospitality is unbelievable.  The Wangs expect to host us, as their honored guests, in all things.  Charlotte has at least managed to convince her father that we love his cooking and other Chinese food but just can’t do justice to eight or more dishes!  We have not been able to pay for much of anything--from hotel room and meals to even bottled water.  We feel humbled and grateful.